Kundan
Kundan keshri is a traditional South Asian gemstone jewellery. Meena Kundan, also known as Bikaneri or Jaipuri jewellery, is popular variation in Kundan, where in enameling with vivid colours and design is on the reverse, while the kundan setting in the front. The city of Jaipur in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for kundan jewellery in India.
History
It flourished in greatly in the Mughal era as it received royal patronage with the most intricate form of Indian Gem Stone, and is the oldest form of jewellery made and worn in India, still in use . Over the years the kundan jewellery of the courts was successfully copied in silver in Rajasthan, Bihar and the Punjab states and became popular with common man as well.Even today, it remains an integral part of traditional wedding trousseau for a bride, especially as traditional settings such as kundan, thappa and ras rawa are experiencing a revival Most recently, in the 2008 epic film, Jodhaa Akbar, the lead character portrayed by Aishwariya Rai was shown extensively wearing Kundan jewellery made by Tata Group's Tanishq brand, highlighting its lasting influence in royal Rajasthani jewellery.
"American diamond" and kundan jewellery contribute the largest share of both value and volume market in Indian jewellery market.
The word Kundan means highly refined gold, the kundan jewellery uses excessively refined purest form of molten gold to set stones etc.
Process
Kundan Jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, cut and polished multicoloured gemstones into exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base. The elaborate process, begins with first skeletal framework called Ghaat, thereafter the Paadh procedure takes place, during which lac or the wax is poured onto the framework and moulded according to the design. In the following Khudai process, fitting of stones or the uncut gems is done into the framework, followed by Meenakari, which involves enameling to define the design details. In th next, Pakai process, gold foils that hold the gems onto the framework are soldered and finally the gems are polished using Chillai process.
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